Daube au vine rouge:有史以来最好的炖牛肉

牛肉Daube Rue du Bac Butcher 2 22 12

There is a story behind each recipe. This one has several. The last day of our last 普罗旺斯 class one September, I sent a student to the vegetable garden for salads 和herbs. She came back screaming “Your garden has been destroyed, everything is in disarray.” Sure enough. Big chunks had been chewed from the pumpkins. Zucchini plants had been pulled out, salads trampled, there were crater-like holes everywhere. The wild boar had had a midnight party. I didn’t cry because we were leaving the next day 和wouldn’t be back for several months. But I laughed when I saw that they had not touched the arugula 要么 the 紫苏!没有美食家,那些野猪。 快进圣诞节:一位资深猎人的邻居带着一包巨大的冷冻野猪来到门口,向我保证这不是破坏我花园的动物。 (他怎么能确定?)我考虑过重新赠送这个生物,但是我决定自己煮它可能是最好的报仇。的 道布 很好吃

Back in 巴黎, I decided to re-test the recipe with beef, 和when I went to my local butcher 和simply asked for 2 kg of beef for a 道布, preferably two 要么 three different cuts, he created a veritable still life. I arrived home with three cuts of beef, strips of caul fat, marrow bones 和of course a garnish of fresh parsley! While the 道布 can be prepared with a single cut of meat, I like to use two 要么 three, to allow for more complex flavors 和textures. Careful searing of the meat is essential, to seal in juices. Flaming the wine adds another layer of flavor. A few marrow bones 和strips of caul fat add a fabulous, silken texture to the final product. And while most French 道布 recipes recommend using either fresh tagliatelle 要么 dried penne pasta, I prefer sheets of fresh pasta. They’re prettier on the plate, easier to eat, 和more quickly absorb the silken sauce.

设备:带盖重型砂锅; 10夸脱(10升)面食锅,装有漏勺; 8个温热的浅汤碗。






1夸脱(1 l)自制鸡肉汤(000页)

2 large onions, peeled 和halved 横向切成细环

4 carrots, peeled 和cut into think rounds













在 the casserole, heat the oil over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking. Add several pieces of the meat 和brown them over moderate heat, regulating the heat to avoid scorching the meat. Do not crowd the pan 和be patient: Good browning is essential for the meat to retain flavor 和moistness. Thoroughly brown the meat on all sides in several batches, about 10 minutes per batch. As each batch is browned, use tongs (to avoid piercing the meat) to transfer the beef to a platter. Immediately season generously with salt 和pepper. Return all the meat to the casserole. Add the wine 和bring to a simmer. Flame the wine烧掉酒精。 Be very careful here: Be sure nothing flammable is near the burner. It will take about 4 minutes 烧掉酒精。

Add the stock, onions, carrots, bay leaves, 和tomato paste. If using, add the caul fat 和marrow bones. Cover 和bring just to a simmer over moderate heat. Cook, covered, maintaining a very gentle simmer,  until the meat is very tender, 3 to 4 hours. Stir from time to time to evenly coat the pieces of meat with the liquid. The sauce should be glossy 和thick. Taste for seasoning. (The 道布 can be prepared a day in advance, covered 和refrigerated.) Reheat at serving time.

Prepare the mushrooms: 在 a large, covered saucepan, combine the butter, mushrooms, 和lemon juice. Cover 和cook over moderate heat until tender, about 5 minutes. Keep the mushrooms warm while finishing the dish.

Prepare the pancetta: 在 a large skillet with no added fat, brown the pancetta over moderate heat until crisp 和golden, about 5 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer the pancetta to several layers of paper towel to absorb the fat. Blot the top of the pancetta with several layers of paper towel to absorb any additional fat.

Fill the pasta pot with 8 quarts (8 l) of water 和bring to a rolling boil over high heat.  Add the coarse salt 和the pasta, stirring to prevent the pasta from sticking. Cook until tender. Drain.

转让 a square of pasta to each warmed shallow soup bowl. Arrange several pieces of meat, the carrots, mushrooms 和bacon on top of the pasta. Garnish with parsley. Serve.



红酒建议:我喜欢这里的优雅西拉,例如 Vincent 巴黎的红宝石Cornas。

Chez Denise:午夜疯狂


Thank goodness for old-time bistros like Chez Denise, those red-checkered tablecloths, efficient waiters, liter bottles of Brouilly, 和nearly every bistro classic in the books: well-seared, rare 和juicy hanger steak (let),炸薯条,牛排 art,羔羊的大脑(切尔韦尔-达纳瑙),白菜酿(选择闹剧),小牛肉肾(罗农) in mustard sauce, 和法式慢炖菜 (white beans 和varied meats). This is a good-time place for feasting, sitting elbow to elbow with your neighbors, living in carnivore utopia. We love the copious 弗里赛辅助面包丁,寒冷的卷曲菊苣,再加上以著名的新鲜出炉的油煎面包块 痛苦Poilâne,以及 哈里科特·德·木顿, not mutton at all but a casserole of creamy white beans 和the tenderest of lamb. Chez Denise is open until 5am, so if you can’t sleep 和have a hunger for grilled pig’s feet, (羽绒被)您知道要去哪里。

CHEZ DENISE /ÀLA TOUR DEMONTLHÉRY,Prouvaires街5号, 巴黎1。电话: +33 1 42 36 21 82。地铁: 罗浮宫或莱斯·哈勒斯。 打开: 周一至周五。 7月中旬至8月中旬周六,周日关闭。 Open until 5am.午餐& 晚餐: 点菜35-50€


缪斯女爵咖啡馆2 3 12

This fun 和funky corner café in the center of the Marais is a perennial favorite. I’d go just for platters of 其 delicate, silken house-smoked salmon, served up with a tangle of greens 和tangy dressing for dipping. Chef-owner Pierre Lecoutre is a master at the stove, 和diners can watch him perform in his tiny, open kitchen, shifting copper pots, stirring 和searing, offering up gorgeous, giant Entrecôte (beef rib steak), frying up deliciously crisp 和golden French fries, roasting Basque pork topped with the famed smoked garlic from Arleux in the north of France. On my last visit we adored the 费米埃尔广场,  a winning 哈奇帕门特r of minced farm-raised guinea hen topped with soothing mashed potatoes (photo). 咖啡馆博物馆 also offers briny Brittany oysters from Paimpol in season. The wine list 和“周刊药物” (daily medicine) measure up to the cuisine, with a crisp 和tart Champagne Drappier Zéro Dosage (meaning no sweet wine is added before bottling), 和a spicy, mineral-rich Chardonnay, the Viré Clessé Quintaine from Domaine de la Bongran 2004. A good place to know anytime, but especially when visiting the Picasso 和Carnavalet museums nearby.

CAFÉDESMUSÉES,Turenne街49号, 巴黎3。 电话: +33 1 42 72 96 17。 地铁: Chemin Vert或Saint-Paul。 每日营业。早餐:中午8点(周末上午10:30);午餐中午-3pm;晚餐晚上7点至晚上11点。电子邮件 [email protected]

午餐: 13€菜单。点菜,40€。

晚餐: 22欧元菜单。点菜40€



作为食客,我们常常只期待着最新的炒作,即当前炒作最多的厨师, 并且我们努力跟上一周的潮流。相反,我们应该时不时地停下来,反思我们似乎拥有的好地方 在匆忙中被遗忘了。稳固而经典,可信赖的老朋友,一旦被炒作遗忘的地方或关上门,他们将永远在那里。我承认,自从我参观马克·威廉姆森(Mark Williamson)于1980年成立的如今具有里程碑意义的酒吧以来,已经有好几年了。我的最后一顿饭是一个启示:具有特色和历史的食物,在炉子上接受过经典教育的厨师,在世界任何地方都难以击败的葡萄酒单,受过良好训练并且似乎很喜欢在那里的员工。我喜欢他们对细节的关注,似乎是想让客户满意的食物,是一个真实的地方(很棒!),并且没有公开尝试证明任何东西。这次访问的食物非常美味:一盘美丽的罗斯瓦尔土豆,温暖,浸在淡淡的酱汁中,淋上最新鲜的烤核桃和咸咸的培根;混合着野生蘑菇的美味冷漠床,上面放着一轮新鲜的意大利面。自1993年以来,那里的厨师Francois Yon就比以往任何时候都更了解灼灼感。那天傍晚,我们潮湿且完全煮熟的农场饲养的小牛皮,外表厚重,桃花心木色调,内饰细腻柔和,全部摆放在混合蔬菜,胡萝卜,韭菜,土豆,萝卜的床上。可以说他的超级种的农场饲养的几内亚母鸡(品脱) set on the same soothing bed of vegetables. His chocolate terrine (photo) should go in the record books as one of the best ever, 和of course Willi’s wine list will bring any wine lover to his 要么 her knees. The 2005 red Chateauneuf-du-Pape Domaine du Marcoux from sisters Sophie 和Catherine Armenier is a dream, a balance blend of opulence 和refinement, as well as tons of pleasure.

WILLI'S WINE BAR,小路香榭丽舍大街13号, 巴黎1; 电话: +33 1 42 61 05 09。 地铁: 证券交易所或皇家宫殿或金字塔。

打开: 周一周六。周日不营业。 www.williswinebar.com (在线预订)。 午餐: 20.50€, 23.40€ 和26.50€ menus.

晚餐: 33€& 36€ menus.

Le Coq Rico:家禽的日子到了

Le Coq Rico Broth Ravioles 2 7 12

我不喜欢让我感到内的餐厅。但这并不是蒙马特新奇的Le Coq Rico店主Antoine Westermann的错。我首先要说的是,立即预订,这个地方非常棒,每周7天开放,因此没有任何借口。想开一家单配料概念餐厅,您需要多少天才?家禽,意思是鸡和珍珠鸡,鸭和鸽子。及其带来的一切。 Le Coq Rico让我感到内的原因是它们如何利用这些娇嫩的鸟儿的每一个,并将肾脏,心脏,肝脏和翅膀变成神奇的杂草。我不知道我把装满鸡肝的冰箱塞满了我从来没有做过的陶罐。当我应该以更大的荣誉对待食材时,我在给它们烤鸟时将心和g塞满了鸟。但是出于Le Coq Rico的原因:整只鸟。厨师 蒂埃里·莱贝(ThierryLébé)和他的超专业工作人员以精准而安静的烹饪技巧,将法国各地的农场饲养的家禽(每个都带有家谱和农民的名字)烤制在一个小而高效的厨房里的烤肉店里。食客可以选择坐在酒吧旁观看表演,也可以在两个小餐厅之一中用餐。这个地方明亮,现代,低调。菜单为每个人提供了一些东西:从金棕色,浓重的家禽和芹菜根汤中lad入嫩馄饨,里面装满 鹅肝 (photo), 和on to 其 signature Planchette deBéatilles: poultry hearts seared, gizzards cooked tenderly in fat, wings lacquered, 和little curried balls of herbs deep-fried. I love pigeon but am never 100% satisfied with my efficient use of the bird, yet here it’s roasted perfectly rare 和rosy, teamed up with mushrooms 和bacon with the tender liver crushed atop a rectangle of toast. A single serving of Challans farm-raised chicken is a wonder of nature, moist, tender, as it should be but not always is. And, well, the fries are about the best ever, deep golden brown, crispy, can’t stop eating them delicious. Even the little green salad here is fresh 和attentively dressed. I can’t imagine having room for dessert here, though somehow I did: the 我叫弗洛特安特 is gorgeous, rich, 和flawless, the seasonal salad of pineapple, pineapple sorbet, with a touch of ginger 和lime zest add a tonic that takes you bravely into the cold winter air.

LE COQ RICO,莱皮克街rue 98号, 巴黎18。 电话: +33 1 42 59 82 89。地铁: Lamarck-Caulincourt。 打开: 日常。www.lecoqrico.com

午餐& 晚餐: 点菜,35-70€


Taillevent 1 12意大利调味饭烩饭

An American friend spends part of each year in 巴黎, 和when he is there his rule is to lunch at Taillevent each 和every Friday. A worthy goal, I say! This was one of the first Michelin 3-star restaurants I ever visited, back in the 1970’s. Over the years, the elegant, understated dining room has been our family’s choice to celebrate birthdays, anniversaries, honors. Today, the club-like restaurant is as alive, alert, 和up-to-date as any I know. As it always did, it provides the very definition of modern French 高级美食. Chef Alain Solivérès 和his pastry chef Matthieu Bijou make this one of the finest dining spots in the country. They both know how to update classics to modern-day tastes 和expectations, working always with the finest of ingredients. Fish, shellfish, game, poultry, 和meat are all treated with utmost respect. I have recreated the chef’s gorgeous crab 蛋黄酱, sweet 和delicately seasoned crab topped with a crown of colorful 和crunchy radish rounds, though I know that I could never duplicate his lobster 布丁,一种亚洲风味的龙虾香肠,浸入精致的奶油和鱼子酱中。在我的最后一次拜访中,他让我赞叹不已 art 新鲜的扇贝,上面放着亚洲草药,再加上超嫩的鹿肉鱼片,融化了温暖的味道。 鹅肝. The accompanying autumn vegetables – beets, turnips, 和parsnips – could have been a meal on 其 own.  在冬季,黑松露在这里盛行,普罗旺斯的奶油烩饭 成就 (拼写)上面有一块松露的冠冕(照片);神奇的 lièvreàla royale, fashioned into a rich, fragrant, perfectly seasoned terrine studded with truffles 和served with a well-matched saffron-sauced pasta; 和an outgrageous portion of smooth 和buttery potato 蛋氨酸 showered with minced truffles 和a golden egg yolk. Save plenty of room for Bijou’s dessert creations: I dream of his super-perfect chocolate tart (the thinnest of crusts, the most ethereal chocolate), while his vanilla 千层饼 has to be one of the lightest 和flakiest in 巴黎. One cannot dine here without regretting the absence of perhaps the city’s greatest restaurateur of modern times, Jean-Claude Vrinat. We will always miss him.  Jean-Marie Ancher, long Vrinat’s right-hand man, carries on with absolute attention 和care, while the extensive wine list remains one of the glories of the establishment.

TAILLEVENT,拉梅奈街15号,巴黎8 电话:+33 1 44 95 15 01地铁:乔治五世或戴高乐广场

打开: Monday-Friday. Closed Saturday, Sunday, 和holidays www.taillevent.com 电子邮件 [email protected]

午餐:82€&195€菜单。点菜120-260€ Dinner:195€菜单。点菜120-260€


那些辛辣,令人上瘾的日本饺子的粉丝, 饺子, should make a beeline for this modern, streamlined bar set in the historic Passage des Panoramas. Find a stool 和settle into a mini-feast. Chefs Guillaume Guedi 和Shinichi Sato of the Michelin two-star restaurant, Passage 53 nearby, have an instant hit on 其 hands, offering simplicity at its best with 其 yuzu zest 和chile pepper-spiced wheat flour dumplings, filled with the succulent ground pork loin from star butcher Hugo Desynoyer. The dumplings are seared right in front of you in a touch of oil in customized cast iron pans, sprinkled with a touch of water, then steamed, so one side is golden 和crunchy, the other soft 和soothing. Dip the cresent-shaped goodies into a citrus-rich 庞佐 sauce touched with grapefruit 和orange 和your palate breaks into a smile: The contrast of textures, a touch of spice, a hit of citrus makes for one happy diner. The only other offerings here include a tiny bowl of bean sprouts laced with nutty sesame oil, 和a simple serving of white rice. There’s both Yebisu 和Kirin beer to wash it all down. The bar is efficiency personified, with excellent service from a trio of young 日本 women. The décor is pure, understated 日本 all wood, grey stone, 和glass, a perfect contrast to the 通道,具有古老的迷人光泽。

饺子吧 全景路56号, 巴黎2。 电话: +33 1 44 82 00 62。地铁: Bourse 和Grands Boulevards.打开: 仅晚上6点至11点。周一周六。周日不营业。 晚餐:6八个饺子€;有手提包。


Yoom Boulettes Thai Pimentees aux Crevettes

当两个巴黎朋友从香港回来几年后,他们错过的是 点心, those endearing little steamed dumplings stuffed with meat, seafood, vegetables, 和all manner of herbs. So the pair set out to learn the intricacies of 点心 在中国厨师的帮助下今天他们没有一个,而是两个 点心 restaurants, 其 year-old spot on the fabulous market street Rue des Martyrs, 和another just a week old on rue Gregoire de Tours in the 6th. Their places are hip 和modern looking, 和while you don’t have the grand-ballroom steamy setting of old Hong Kong, they’re fine spots for a quick, light lunch when you need an Asian hit. I love that 其 combinations are a little out-of-the-box, with vibrant-tasting dumplings filled with beef, ginger, soy, 和basil; others stuffed with mushrooms, carrots, satay sauce, chicken, peanuts, 和coriander. The small menu moves all over Asia, with some delightful Thai shrimp meatballs (photo), boulettes泰国pimentéesaux crevettes; 和soothing Vietnamese rice paper 可丽饼 filled with chunks of smoked sausage, fish sauce 和chile sauce. Yoom is a bit pricey (5 to 6 € for just two to three dumplings), 和too many dishes arrive lukewarm, reducing the pleasure by half. So ask for everything to be served steaming hot, 和the message is, don’t come too hungry 要么 too poor.

YOOM,Gregoire de Tours街5号, 巴黎6 电话: +33 1 43 54 94 56, 地铁: Mabillon或Odéon。 打开: 周一至周五。周六休息& Sunday.午餐& 晚餐: 点心从5.50-6.50€

YOOM,烈士街20号 巴黎9 电话: +33 1 56 92 19 10。 地铁: 圣乔治或皮加勒。 打开: 周一至周五。周六休息& Sunday. 午餐& 晚餐: 点心从5.50-6.50€



今天,我简直无法抗拒,在小村庄圣保罗·特洛伊斯·夏特(Saint-Paul Trois Chateaux)的周日早晨松露市场上,大约 距我们位于普罗旺斯的农舍只有30分钟路程。整个村庄都非常有条理,只有少数的商人,但是什么松露!从11月下旬到3月,每个松露卖主都在每个星期日上午9点在城镇广场咖啡馆见面。他们必须出示每块松露以进行“审查”,以确保它们是正宗的法国松露(不是廉价的中国冒名顶替者)。早上10点左右,农民从咖啡厅出来,在广场周围的桌子上摆放秤。 fountain,  and  销售开始。只需花费6欧元,您就可以品尝一杯美味的松露馄饨和当地的葡萄酒。有史以来最好的早餐! 这是我买过的最大的松露,整整250克,或8盎司。一公斤900欧元,您可以算一下。我们的学生将在本周被宠坏,因为我们明天晚上开始松露盛会。


Galette 小布雷日 1 12

邮票大小 薄饼 在Odéon附近是一个真正的发现。荞麦 加莱特 用非常致密的黑斑点有机面粉(黑人黑人) milled specially for the owners --- brother 和sister team Pierre 和Claire Goasdoué --  who put 其 heart 和soul into this little enterprise. Stone walls, giant wooden beams 和bistro chairs give it a true neighborhood air, setting it apart from the tourist restaurants that line this narrow little street. I could lunch here each day, sampling the elegant, filling ham 和cheese 法式烧饼,就像布列塔尼的爱情诗一样。的 法式烧饼 is paper-thin, crisp 和crunchy with a deep, rich freshly milled texture. Wash it down with a cup of chilled cider, 和you’ve got a meal for under 10€. Their salmon 法式烧饼 is equally appealing, 和service comes with cheer 和a smile. This is a good place to know late in the morning (加莱特 for breakfast, anyone?) since they open at 11 am. It’s also child 和vegetarian friendly.

小BREIZH, 11 rueGrégoirede Tours, 巴黎6 电话: +33 1 43 54 60 74 地铁: 欧登 打开: 周二至周日。周一休息。

电子邮件 [email protected]午餐: 13.50€菜单,包括苹果酒点菜,10-19€ 晚餐: 点菜,10-19€


拉米·路易斯1 12

漫画还是真正的交易?他们是在拉我们的腿还是向我们提供正宗的小酒馆票价?我想这取决于一天中的历史,面貌和心情。当然,这家1930年代小酒馆的装潢 自1950年代以来,它一直是全球性的偶像。昏暗,黑暗,褪色,摇晃。但是,那只烤鸡。拉米·路易(L'Ami Louis)的秘密当然是厨房用橡木炉烤制的烤箱,可提供甜美,柔软而又强烈的热量,使巴黎多汁的鸟类拥有最好的(如果不是最好的话)。自1978年以来一直在拉美路易(L'Ami Louis)居住的路易(Maitred Louis)(他的真名)说,自从他到来以来,他们就已经在第四个燃木炉上了。在我1970年代后期的首次访问中,我记得著名的厨师安托万·马宁(Antoine Magnin)(其照片挂在饭厅里)在一个古老的黑木烤箱上做饭,穿着厨师的白葡萄酒和女演员罗米·施耐德(Romy Schneider)给他的红色方巾。 “什么都没改变。”路易自豪地宣布,他说得很对。今天大量的冰鲜 鹅肝 比我记得的要好,经过精心调味,并带有酸味。大多数入门者,例如 鹅肝 和the generous serving of scallops, seared with plenty of butter, whole cloves of garlic 和a showering of parsley, can easily be shared. I have had better leg of lamb, this one tasting not as young as I’d like, though cooked to perfection in that wood oven. Towers of shoestring potatoes warm the heart of any potato lover, but my favorite “new” dish on the menu is the giant potato cake – they call it Pommes Bearnaises --  brilliantly exeuted, with tiny potatoes cooked in 其 skins, then baked in a round mold so the skin turns blisterly 和deep golden. The “cake” comes embellished with parsley 和chopped 大蒜,虽然我希望  they’d hold the raw garlic, especially in winter months when it’s bitter no matter how “fresh” it may be. The wine list has improved a thousand-fold (both in selections 和in value), 和on my last visit we feasted on both the flinty white Sauvignon Blanc Henri Bourgeois Sancerre “Jadis,” (80€) 和the heady, deep purple, expressive Gigondas from Domaine de la Bouïssiere (59€)按照前拉美路易(L'Ami Louis)标准讲价。并不是说这顿饭很划算:两个人的鸡肉是80欧元,  the leg of lamb for two €140. OK, if you are in a frugal mood, two people could get out of this iconic bistro for 136€, without wine, not outrageous in this day 和age. A place that every 巴黎 Food Lover should experience, at least once.

L'AMI LOUIS,Vertbois街32号, 巴黎3 电话: +33 1 48 87 77 48 地铁: 庙宇或艺术和中世纪 打开: 周三至周日。 7月中旬至8月中旬,周一,周二关闭。午餐& 晚餐: 点菜68-160€



1月8日星期天晚上,CBS新闻60分钟将播出一段珍贵的冬季黑松露的片段, called The Most Expensive Food in the World. 持续 January Walter 和I spent three days filming with the CBS crew 和spent time in our kitchen in 普罗旺斯 with Lesley Stahl, above. Unfortunately, we did not make the television cut. However, parts of our segment should be available on line  in 60 Minutes Overtime. Just in time for our special Truffle Extravaganza cooking week, which begins January 23. Truffle shavers sharpened 和hunting boots at the ready!

Bicha au Bois

野鸭A La Biche au Bois

A la Biche au Bois is one restaurant where you definitely get what you came for. Game 和plenty of it. Hearty food, good wine, a super-generous cheese platter, 和classic desserts. Whether you’re in the mood for Biche (雌性幼鹿)或 芥末酱 (野鸭)(照片)这家经典的小酒馆一定会让您满意。舒缓的土豆泥(来自Agatha品种的 土豆(含10%的黄油,服务生保证)完全值得绕道而行,豪华的奶酪盘,珍宝叠在一起,备有收藏夹 布里干酪,原料奶 卡蒙伯尔, 和蓝色德高斯 all in perfect ripeness. There’s a parade of terrines --- rabbit, duck, 要么 a mix of meats – each one better than the other, classic 和rich. I don’t remember the last time I saw 红酒炖鸡 on the menu, but you’ll find it here, meaty 和bathed in a vibrant red wine sauce. Oh, 和yes, the chocolate mousse is the reason you come to 巴黎 to dine. If the always reliable Côtes-du Rhone Clos du Caillou is still on the wine list, go for it. The meaty red is a Châteauneuf du Pape stand-in if there ever was one. This is a bistro where you’ll find a mixed crowd, from the well-fed SNCF conductor to youthful locals to happy tourists, all feasting on treasures of the day. The 28€ menu is a veritable bargain.

Ledru-Rollin大道45号的LA BICHE AU BOIS, 巴黎12 电话: +33 1 43 43 34 38 地铁: Gare de Lyon或Quai-la-Rapée

打开: 周一至周五。周六,周日不营业& Monday lunch.午餐& 晚餐: 28€菜单。点菜,35€


Grand Pan Eggs 和Truffles

这个肘部到肘部的肉类爱好者的天堂藏在第15区的南部边缘,是它的经典之作 类型, a bistro where friends gather with two thoughts in mind: Copious food 和lots of laughter for the sounds of good times. Waiters all but skate through the crowded duet of dining rooms, arms held high, delivering gigantic seared steaks cooked rare 和juicy, double-thick veal chops ok so rosy, thick pork chops 和giant bowls of oversized French fries. There’s a good Morgon on the list from winemaker Georges Descombes, a smooth wine with a pleasing flavor of lightly smoked meat. The service is familiar 和friendly in the best sort of way, while in the winter months the menu might announce a lovely baked egg topped with slices of authentic, fresh black truffles (photo). If so, go for it!

潘岳  20 rue Rosewald, 巴黎15 电话: +33 1 42 50 02 50  地铁: is夫/公约 打开: 周一至周五。周六休息& Sunday.午餐: 28€菜单。点菜,35-55€ 晚餐: 点菜35-55€

回到巴黎,chez“ 爱田”

厨师大田爱司(Aoji Koji 爱田)晚上在游行中表现出纯正的日本风味,这是他稳重的双手和神奇的铁板烧所带来的巧妙而又爆炸性的动作。在BonBoné百货商店附近的第7区一条安静的街道上摆放的这种朴素的餐厅可能并不适合所有人。有些人会觉得味道太微妙,或者更多地将仪式视为附带表演,甚至有人称其为“贝尼哈纳体验”。但是在我看来,纯日本料理和艺术性的爱好者应该帮自己一个忙,并保留一个晚上的乐趣。该餐厅很小,柜台上只能容纳9个房间,一个私人房间只能容纳4个房间,还有两个可以在餐桌旁用餐的地方。有一个单独的固定菜单,可提供稳定的创意,超新鲜产品。在一次晚餐中,Aida设法覆盖了广阔的地面,将鱼,贝类,肉,蛋以及大量草药,香料和蔬菜编织成组合。在我的最后一次访问中,我们在酒吧里的一个宝藏处就在一尘不染的不锈钢烤炉的正前方。 我永远不会忘记-并将永远尝试模仿-他那肥大,煮熟的蛋黄放在透明的玻璃容器中(照片),上面放有海藻和鱼肉汤,上面掺有黑色的冬季松露。这道菜本身就是一件精美的艺术品,具有可爱的质感,令人愉悦的口感,色彩和香气。 11道菜的其他最喜欢的回忆包括上颚开放 art of veal 和oysters bathed in tangy, golden bits of gelatin; 和a stunning dish of mackerel rolled around a mound of sushi rice then wrapped in rectangles of nori. The chef deftly toasts the seaweed, then takes a blow-torch to the prepared rice 和mackerel bundles, an explosive taste that was luxurious in the mouth. The meal has a clear rhythm, a “wow” taste followed by a subtle one. After the mackerel came a tiny taste of glistening, line-caught seabass (利格纳酒吧)在刚磨碎的DAB陪同下 芥末 horseradish. Alongside, a bit of crunch 和freshness came in the form of finely shredded cucumber 和radish salad. Who would have thought to deep-fry a naked scallop, but here a duet of fried 蜂鸟圣雅克 are sliced in half to display the scallop’s amazing progression of textures 和colors, raw to crisply cooked. A simple mound of 鸢尾花 on the side served as a singular seasoning. Beef tenderloin – from none other than 巴黎’s star butcher Hugo Desnoyer – is seared on the hot griddle, then cut into bite-sized cubes 和sauced ever so lightly. What should have been the star of the meal came out just a bit too dry for my palate: 爱田 worked like an 要么chestra leader constructing his showpiece, a studied mix of grilled lobster, lobster roe, sushi rice, eggs 和gentle seasoning, all gathered into a perfect mound on the griddle 和delivered to diners in the signature hand-crafted pottery. Nothing is left to chance here, 和for some that may lack drama. I love the place, 和after the finale, clementine sorbet with a touch of clementine puree, I walked out into the night feeling fresh 和oh so light.

AIDA, 1 Pierre-Leroux街,巴黎7 电话: +33 1 43 06 14 18(下午2点后致电进行预订) 地铁: 瓦诺 打开: 仅周一至周五晚餐。周六休息& Sunday.

www.aidaparis.com (in French 和Japanese) 电子邮件[email protected]

晚餐: 160€ 奥马卡塞 (品尝)菜单(时令松露菜单210欧元)


帕特里夏·威尔斯(Patricia Wells)的《 Simply Truffles》
帕特里夏·威尔斯(Patricia Wells)的《 Simply Truffles》





我很高兴宣布我的最新著作《简单松露》的诞生,其中包括杰夫·考克的非凡照片! Twenty-five years in the works, it’s been a labor of love 和excitement, as each new fall I await fresh truffle season, 和a chance to create new recipes with that black magic mushroom. You will be happy to know that most of the recipes in the book can stand deliciously on 其 own, with 要么 without truffles. 在 most cases, the truffle is a last-minute embellishment. Simply Truffles can be 要么dered through the links below, 要么 through your local bookstore. I am sharing a favorite recipe from the book, one for Belgian Endive, Pine Nut, Chive, 和Truffle Salad.

Belgian Endive, Pine Nut, Chive, 和Truffle Salad

This refreshing winter salad offers crunch, aroma, a fine blending of flavors, 和a pleasing contrast of colors. Serve it as a first course, with plenty of crusty bread.

1块新鲜黑松露(约1盎司; 30克)








With a vegetable peeler, peel the truffle. Mince the truffle peelings, place in the small jar, 和tighten the lid. Reserve the peelings for another use. With the mandoline 要么 very sharp knife, cut the truffle into thick slices, then into matchsticks.

Toast the pine nuts: Place the nuts in a small, dry skillet over medium heat. Shake the pan regularly until the nuts are fragrant 和evenly toasted, about 2 minutes. Watch carefully! They can burn quickly.

转让the nuts to a bowl. Add the truffles 和chives. Toss with just enough pine nut oil to coat the ingredients lightly 和evenly. Season lightly with the salt.

Slice each endive head lengthwise in half. Place each half, cut side down, on the cutting board 和cut on the diagonal into thick matchsticks. Place the endive in a large salad bowl. Add just enough pine nut oil to coat the vegetable lightly 和evenly. Season lightly with the salt.  Arrange the endive on 4 individual salad plates. Top with the pine nut, truffle, 和chive mixture. Serve with the toast.


款式:如要制作色彩鲜艳,饱满的冬季沙拉,请在每个沙拉中加约8盎司(250克)  tiny haricots verts green beans, blanched 和refreshed; seared pancetta matchsticks; seared fresh mushrooms.


It was only a few seasons ago, after I went rather wild about creating all manner of seasoned salts, that I leapt with enthusiasm into the production of truffle salt. It’s magic 和now one item that I am never without. Just the tiniest amount of minced truffle peelings paired with 鸢尾花, 要么 even fine sea salt, can transform a dish – an effective way to extract the most out of the costly truffle.  即使在炎热的夏天,它也可以在冰箱中振作起来沙拉,鸡蛋盘子,随便你说。不要拥抱松露而不拥抱松露盐。



1汤匙fleur de sel或上等海盐

1. 在 the small jar, combine the minced truffles 和salt.  Tighten the lid 和shake to blend. Refrigerate for up to 1 week 要么 freeze for up to 1 year.

2. For each use, remove the truffle salt from the freezer 要么 refrigerator, remove the desired amount, 和return the jar to the freezer 要么 refrigerator.


巴恩斯& Noble



怀特里斯REGIS 10 11

Early yesterday morning I walked past Huiterie Regis on my way back from a sunny run in the Luxembourg Gardens, 和there on the doorstep were two huge sacks of crushed ice, waiting for Regis to arrive 和begin opening oysters. My brain went into overdrive 和shouted, LUNCH! A few hours later, there I was. From the moment you approach this spotless, all white postage-stamp sized oyster bar, you know that you are in for a treat. Clean, briny, top-of-the line oysters are what you will find here, especially the Marennes-Oléron from the Poitou-Charentes in Southwest France, aged in ocean beds for up to two months once they come of age. At Regis there is room for only 14 diners indoors 和8 on tiny sidewalk tables outdoors. Regis is simple 和efficient: You must have at least a dozen oysters per person here, 和you can watch as the oysters are opened before you eyes. You should have no trouble polishing off 其 tiny 克莱尔郡,让您品尝到海洋的滋味;或我的另一个最爱 克莱尔群岛 3号(两个选项中较小的一个),带有真正的暗示 hazelnuts, oysters that leave your palate with a welcoming, cleansing aftertaste for hours to come. Now I know that we have all been taught different rules of etiquette on oyster eating. Many people return empty shells to the platter. I was taught that this is bad etiquette. Rather, one carefully stacks one's empty oyster shells on the dinner plate, avoiding any possibility of contamination to the 要么iginal platter. (photo). There is wine by the glass, carafe, 要么 bottle. A favorite here is Alphonse Mellot’s Sancerre Desmoiselles, a truly stunning Sauvignon Blanc with chalky, mineral-rich overtones. The oysters 和wine seem to shake hands at the table! Depending upon the season, Regis may also have a few cooked shrimp, some sea urchins (我们的),原始苍白(暗疮)。开张牡蛎有一项外卖服务。从11欧元到37欧元一打。

怀特里斯·里吉斯 3,巴黎Montfacon街6号。电话:+33 1 44 41 10 17. 地铁: Mabillon/Saint Germain des Prés. 打开: Tuesday-Sunday, 12-3 pm 和6:30-11 pm Closed Monday www.huiterieregis.com。电子邮件: [email protected] 26, 29, 和31-euro tasting menus. Oysters 18.50-59 euro per dozen.

永远可靠的Chez George

Chez George Jambon Persille 10 11

It’s always a pleasure to return to a restaurant you’ve loved for decades 和find it virtually unchanged. And maybe even better than one remembers. 那’s Chez George, the dream bistro just off the Place des Victoires. I am not sure, but it may be the first true 巴黎ian bistro I dined in back in the 1970’s. What I do know is that the menu remains unchanged, the quality is there, 和especially the hussle bustle of the dining room. Well-coiffed waitresses all but skate through the aisles of this long, narrow dining room with its mirrored walls 和gothic columns, effortlessly delivering giant bowls of herring; searingly hot, garlic-scented snails; bowls overflowing with curly frisée greens, rich chunks of bacon, 和perfect poached egg. Everywhere, a feeling of abundance, generosity, 和the sound of good times. The crowd is young, French, chic, and 淡褐色调的餐厅很容易使人回到过去。我喜欢潮湿,香菜丰富的 果酱persillé(照片);小小的野外的慷慨部分 吉罗莱斯 mushrooms; the perfectly grilled sole; 和moist 和meaty Steack de Canard,配以野生蘑菇。朱古力甜品, 塔尔汀, 和千层饼 恰到好处。我唯一的遗憾是他们不在 their 塔尔特·奥·香tron by the time I placed my 要么der. For a bistro, the wine list is extensive. There are plenty of bargin wines at 29 euros a bottle (the fruity red Cotes Roannaise is an ideal bistro wine), 和this is one restaurant that still offers wine “by the meter” charging you only what you have consumed from the bottle. Some good value wines here include Graillot’s Crozes Hermitage; Olivier Leflaive’s white Montagny; 和Dagueneau’s Pouilly Fumé.

CHEZ GEORGE,1,rue de Mail,巴黎2。 电话: +33 1 42 60 07 11.Métro: Bourse/Sentier. Closed Saturday 和Sunday. 40 to 70 euros, not including beverages.


维旺塔麦片粥,蘑菇,烟熏奶酪,香草10 11

皮埃尔·扬库(Pierre Jancou)用自己的葡萄酒吧拉辛斯(Racines)大放异彩,然后休了一年假,他又回到了另一个胜利者,即第十区热闹的小型万象。这间狭长而狭窄的房间始建于1900年,最初是一家出售宠物鸟的商店,这是可爱的陶瓷壁画所证明的。就像在他以前的公司一样,Jancou完全是关于配料。所以我们有无与伦比的 布丁 noir from Christian Parra, the moist, meaty duck from Challans in France’s southwest, lovely Italian burrata 和equally amazing smoked mozzarella. This is a wintry, meaty sort of place but not necessarily heavy. An autumn meal here linked summer 和fall, with an entire burrata (that irresistible mozzarella filled with rich, tangy cream) bathed in a puddle of delicious olive oil, seasoned with coarse salt, pepper, herbs, 和a tiny garden of last-of-season cherry tomatoes. We ushered in fall with another hit: crunchy polenta topped with wild 胸膜肺炎 (oyster) mushrooms 和a meltingly rich round of smoked mozzarella that humoursly resembled a giant mushroom cap (photo). A main course of Challans duck – moist, tender, meaty – was set upon a golden bed of mashed potatoes with the crunch of coarse salt 和thin slices of red onion. An equally succulent Cochon de Lait was served with an ochre square of polenta, soft 和creamy inside, crunchy on the outside. 所有 was escorted by a glass 要么 two of the lively Cotes du Rhone Village red, Pur, 和golden crisp baguettes from Le Grenier a Pain nearby.

生动 43 rue des Petite Ecuries,巴黎10.电话:+33 1 42 46 4355。地铁:Bonne Nouvelle。开放时间:周一至周五。 Closed Saturday 和Sunday.8-14 euros for starters, 14-24 for mains. Wines from 6 euro a glass. Reservations recommended.

开箱即用的Chez Ducasse


如果您认为法语 高级美食 is boring 和passé, think again. For Christopher Saintagne, chef at the illustrious Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athenée, cooks out of the box 和certainly proves that today “fine dining” can be anything the chef says it is. There’s not a touch of preciousness in his food, in fact “earthy” is the word I’d apply to many of his dishes. One look at the streamlined, abbreviated menu 和you begin to get the message. One dish reads only “鱼子酱,鱼子酱。”另一个“大菱t。”您知道这将是所有成分。

你上一次是什么时候 有趣的 like this? The tall, lean, handsome waiter arrives with a hot-off-the-stove sauté pan 和places it in the center of the table. Two long-handled seafood forks rest on a mound of spicy, hot, brilliant pink baby shrimp, the bodies sautéed 和the cleaned heads deep-fried to a perfect crisp. We ate the entire portion. 那 could have been lunch.

A first course of giant langoustines cooked every so slightly, then chilled, arrived as a lineup of perfectly dainty bite-sized portions, topped with a dollop of glistening caviar. Dip them into a delicate langoustines sauce, then follow up with a sip of lemongrass 和ginger-laced broth. Magnificent.

金色的小龙虾浓汤到了,上面放着巨大的贝类风味 oeufà la neige, which is then bathed in a rich, pumpkin-flavored shellfish sauce, making for a stunning dish with myriad textures, flavors, taste sensations. Forceful 和brilliant.

Next came the turbot-lover’s dream. (That’s me, the turbot lover.) A giant rectangular portion of alabaster turbot arrives on a mattress of fresh seaweed, gorgeous 和fragrant, served with a delicate fish broth 和all manner of baby shellfish, strips of Swiss chard 和fresh sea weed. A sea festival, completely satisfying.

尽管选美冠军肯定是新鲜的焗烤食品,但很难决定哪一天是最好的菜。 塞佩 mushrooms (photo) served in a clean white bowl 和garnished with parsley flowers. I took one look at the dish --- painstakingly layered slices of sautéed mushroom – 和asked myself “Why hadn’t I thought of that?” The chef had carefully cubed 和sautéeed mushrooms then topped with the thinly sliced portions. It made me realize that whole, cooked 塞佩斯 are like meat, but when they're sliced 和cooked the mushrooms are pure vegetable. The only ho-hum dish of the meal was the accompanying soup, cubed 塞佩斯 漂浮在青铜色的肉汤中,味道简直无法形容。

And just when I thought I had enough fresh purple figs for the year, the chef insisted I try his autumnal creation, 和I am glad I did. He layered a small 科科特 with fresh fig leaves 和buried them with fresh, whole purple figs. Once cooked, he added sliced, raw figs, then topped it all with a sharp granité of sweet Italian wine. Thank you, October.

Service lead by maître d’ Denis Courtiade is totally down to earth 和friendly, while sommelier Laurent Roucayro breaks the mold of the snooty wine waiter. His choice of wines – Pascal Jolivet’s clean 和expressive 2009 Pouilly Fumé 和Pierre Usseglio’s crisp, full-bodied white Châteaneuf-du-Pape – brought harmony 和happiness to a lovely meal.


阿兰·杜卡斯(法国) 25, avenue Montaigne, 巴黎8. 电话: +33 1 53 67 65 00. 地铁: Alma Marceau. 打开: 午餐Thursday 和Friday only, 12:45 - 2:15pm. Dinner Monday to Friday 7:45 – 10:15pm. Closed Saturdays 和Sundays.